江南刺绣:丝绸上的艺术绝技

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此文是一篇刺绣论文范文,刺绣方面论文范文集,与江南刺绣:丝绸上的艺术绝技相关毕业论文开题报告。适合不知如何写刺绣及苏绣及民间方面的作曲专业大学硕士和本科毕业论文以及刺绣类开题报告范文和职称论文的作为写作参考文献资料下载。

翻开中国刺绣的编年史,江南民间刺绣,无疑是其中最重要的一页.

清道光年间,寓居无锡的刺绣名家丁佩在《绣谱》里说:“刺绣以针,以绢素为纸,以丝线为朱墨、铅黄. ”“取材极约、而用甚广”,为“闺阁中之翰墨. ”

江南民间刺绣的魂就在其精、细和美.精微绣体现了这种极致的精细美.与通常双面绣相比,技术要求更高,难度更大,在用针用线用料用色上更加严谨讲究,尤其在绣刺细部时,须将一根丝线分成七十至八十份,局部细微之处,无法用笔勾勒,全凭手眼与心灵相通方能绣成.

从锡绣到苏绣,刺绣史的华章

晚清以后,上海、苏州、南通,都有民间开设的刺绣传授组织.被誉为“四大名绣”之首的苏绣,无疑是江南刺绣最具代表性的文化遗产.

自宋代以后,苏州刺绣之技十分兴盛,工艺也日臻成熟.农村“家家养蚕,户户刺绣”,城内还出现了绣线巷、滚绣坊、锦绣坊、绣花弄等坊巷,可见苏州刺绣之兴

盛.当时不仅有以刺绣为生的,而且富家闺秀也往往以此消遣时日,陶冶性情,所谓“民间绣”、“闺阁绣”、“宫廷绣”的名称也由此而来.清代苏绣更是盛况空前,苏州被称为“绣市”而扬名四海.当时针法之多,应用之广,莫不超过前朝,山水、亭台、花鸟、人物,无所不能,无所不工.加上宫廷的大量需要,豪华富丽的绣品层出不穷.

难能可贵的是,苏绣的生命力也无比旺盛,它从来没有固步自封,而是不停创新.民国期间,苏州民间艺人吸收上海“顾绣”以及西洋画的特点,创造出光线明暗强烈、富有立体感的风格,最终奠定了它作为民间艺术瑰宝的地位.新中国成立后,苏绣精品以其精湛技艺、地方特色和民族风格,被作为国礼赠送外国元首.仅以苏州双面绣为例,比如《鸣春图》屏风赠给美国总统尼克松,《月季花》赠给坦桑尼亚总统尼雷尔,《熊猫》赠给加蓬总统邦戈,《菖兰花》赠给日本皇后,《梅花》赠给朝鲜首相金日成等.而苏绣精品《猫》《金鱼》等作为国礼馈赠外国元首的更不胜枚举.在对外文化交流和经济贸易中,苏绣作为友谊的纽带,发挥了特有的作用.

在苏绣的影响下,毗邻苏州的无锡也发展出了富有地域特色的民间刺绣“锡绣”,中华大辞典相关词目是这样描述锡绣的:“无锡精微绣,是苏绣分支,它把刺绣的精、细、美表达得非常透彻:远看诗情画意,近看人物神情毕现,用放大镜看,更是惟妙惟肖.”

历史上,清光绪二十三年(1897),李佩黻、李韵和妯娌在无锡当地创办了锡山绣工传习会,来学习的多是闺中少女,传授的是富有观赏价值的“闺阁绣”,锡山绣工传习会影响广泛,这一时期,刺绣名家辈出,生产规模也很大,传习会的绣品在当年世博会、国际博览会上屡获金奖.这一切成就了无锡刺绣的鼎盛,“传习会”的成就赢得了当时农工商部“精制绣品、折法改良”的银奖牌嘉奖.

岁月的流转并没有让锡绣失去光彩,刺绣人才辈出、佳作流传于世界各地.上世纪末,由锡绣大师、国家级“非遗”传承人赵红育负责主创,采用精微绣技艺与发绣技艺相结合的发绣长卷作品《古运河梁溪风情图》,获当年的大世界吉尼斯之最.今天,这幅作品珍藏在无锡市博物馆.

湖州绣师沈寿,享誉世界绣坛

与高调的苏绣、锡绣相比,同为江南腹地、同为丝绸之府、同样以民间女红闻名的湖州、嘉兴地区刺绣就低调得多.甚至曾有不少民间刺绣的精品,都因为风格近似的缘故,被当作苏绣售卖流通.

但是,低调的不是所有人.历史上最著名的绣工,就出生在以丝商而闻名的湖州南浔镇.

她叫沈寿,出生于19世纪末,从小学绣的她16岁时已经名扬京城.1904年沈寿绣了佛像等八幅作品,进献清廷为慈禧太后祝寿,慈禧极为满意,赐“寿”字,遂易名为“沈寿”.同年,沈寿受清朝政府委派远赴日本进行考察、交流和研究日本的刺绣及绘画艺术.回国后被任命为清宫绣工科总教习,自创“仿真绣”,在中国近代刺绣史上开拓了一代新风.


1911年,沈寿绣成《意大利皇后爱丽娜像》,作为国礼赠送意大利,轰动该国朝野.意大利皇帝和皇后曾亲函清政府,颂扬中国刺绣艺术精湛,并赠沈寿金表一块.同时将这一幅作品送意大利都朗(都灵)博览会展出,荣获“世界至大荣誉最高级卓越奖”.1914年,沈寿任江苏南通女红传习所所长.她治校严谨,教学有方,常率学生写生,观察实物,讲述仿真绣的理论.即使在病中,她也让学生围榻听讲赋色用线的道理.1915年,沈寿绣的《耶稣像》,参加美国旧金山“巴拿马—太平洋国际博览会”展出,得一等大奖.她著有《雪宦绣谱》一书.

就是这样一位绣工,让江南民间刺绣站到了世界艺术的巅峰,完成了无数苏绣前辈没有完成的奇迹.

更让人欣喜的是,这种艺术价值最大化还在延续 —今天,在湖丝传统产区、与南浔一墙之隔的嘉兴,越来越多的企业正把目光瞄准高艺术价值、高人力附加值的手工刺绣.在桐乡、在平湖、在海宁,越来越多的手工绣成为继皮草制品、羊毛制品后又一出口亮点.而且这些企业很善于使用新兴的营销工具 —在著名的电商网站“阿里巴巴”上,还有110家企业自发组建“嘉兴刺绣网”.售卖的品类和手法也灵活多变,不再局限于屏风摆件、绣品画框,而是把手工刺绣技艺更多地运用在实用的服装、抱枕、被褥上.外贸订单之多,让人咋舌.

2012年,位于嘉兴秀洲的丝绸文化博物馆开馆,占地面积4000多平方米,集中展示了当地的丝绸历史和今天丝绸产业的状况.其中的“综艺坊”展馆,就以各种图表文字、珍贵文物、人物塑像、多媒体及场景等展示手段,有重点地反映了当地手工刺绣的悠久历史和文化底蕴.

技艺传承有序,绣师守护绝艺

当然,除了著名流派、著名绣工之外,传承有序也是江南民间刺绣的特点之一.

让我们把目光投向更南边的杭州—全国除了苏绣、蜀绣、湘绣、粤绣“四大名绣”之外,杭绣无疑在汴绣、晋绣、苗绣等绣种里独占鳌头.

今天还矗立在杭州中山路上的张允升百货店,已经有200多年的历史,便是杭绣发展的见证者. 民国初,出身制线工人的孙仲舒盘进“张允升”.孙仲舒早年在高银巷木瓜弄口一家制线作坊当学徒,为人聪慧,深得东家传授,制得一手好丝线.孙仲舒盘进店铺后,自设工场,向桐乡、海宁、德清及余杭等地采购优质的清水蚕丝,制成各档丝线.

传说,有一年春天,几位泰国僧人来到张允升卖串绳的柜台前,诘问伙计:“你们的丝线会不会褪色? ”正好被站在一旁的孙仲舒听到,当时立即请他们到制线工场参观,并随便拿了几种颜色的丝线放进盛有清水的面盆中浸了一个多小时,捞出丝线,不见丝毫褪色,众僧人心服口服.走时,买了不少串绳告别而去.从此,年年有不少东南亚诸国的寺庙和店家来杭采购或订购.张允升丝线就是从这个时期走红杭城.

在张允升的推动下,周边民间的手工刺绣棚作发展很快,当时的羊坝头巷曾成为杭城戏服刺绣的集中地.同时,民间手工成衣铺也如雨后春笋应运而生.直到今天,中山路一带的丝绸店铺依然是周边居民的所爱.

而传承人方面,杭绣更是人才辈出.从南宋萌芽开始,每一代都有杰出的手工刺绣艺人,到今天,最著名的有中国工艺美术大师陈水琴,还有被誉为“最后的男工绣传人 ”的赵亦军,他们共同守护着杭绣这块传统的土地,还努力让更多的年轻人接受传续刺绣这门手艺.

其实,杭绣的传承状况,只是整个江南民间刺绣的一个缩影.虽然时代正处在机绣的冲击和丝绸制品本身日渐弱势的时代背景下,但江南民间刺绣一直是一个生命力强盛的“品类”,作为艺术瑰宝的它是整个丝绸文化不可分离的一部分,它的历程也是值得我们珍藏的历史记忆.

Master Zhao Hongyu watches a girl em-broidering a piece.

Take a look at the history of Chinese em-broidery and you will find that embroidery artists in Jiangnan, or the southern part of the Yangtze River Delta, are the most important chapter.

Embroidery flourished in Jiangnan in the last decades of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). There were schools in Shanghai, Suzhou and Nantong where women learned how to make embroidery and made amaz-ing works. Suzhou Embroidery, which dates back to a long time ago, is considered the best of China and is unquestionably the most representative cultural heritage of the embroideries in Jiangnan, as testified by the embroidery pieces unearthed from two famed pagodas of Suzhou, which were made respectively in the Five Dynasties (907-979) and the Song Dynasty (960-1279). These unearthed embroidered silk pieces are the existing most ancient specimens of Suzhou Embroidery.

Suzhou Embroidery of needlework techniques and portrayed all

kinds of images such as landscape, archi-

tecture, birds and flowers, figures. As there

was a huge royal demand on the embroidery made in Suzhou, artisans in Suzhou pro-duced embroidery of luxury and elegance.

Embroidery in Suzhou has never rested on laurels. Embroidery artisans in Suzhou kept breaking new trails. In the decades of the Republic of China, local artists introduced chiaroscuro into embroidery and brought the local embroidery a historical high. Since the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the Suzhou embroidery pieces he long since been used as state gifts for visiting presidents of foreign countries.

Wuxi Embroidery

Interesting enough, Wuxi, a city close to Suzhou, developed its own embroidery on the basis of Suzhou Embroidery. For a long time Wuxi followed Suzhou in embroi-dery. The turning point came in 1897 when two young women started a school to offer embroidery course for girls from local rich families. What was taught at the school was a kind of embroidery in the style of Lady Embroidery. Students at the school num-bered over 100. The school considerably enhanced the reputation of the embroidery industry in Wuxi. In the following years, embroidered silk pieces made by the artists from the school won a number of interna-tional gold medals. Wuxi Embroidery finally made its own name and proved

its own value.

Since the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, the art of Wuxi Embroidery has kept improving. In the late 1990s, Zhao Yuhong, a state master of Wuxi Embroidery, created a hair embroidery masterpiece in col-laboration with other artists. The mas-terpiece is now in the collection of the Wuxi Museum.

Huzhou Embroidery

Compared with Suzhou and Wuxi in Jiangsu Province, Huzhou and Jiaxing in Zhejiang seem to he kept a low profile in their embroidery. Some mas-terpieces made by artists in Huzhou and Jiaxing were mistakenly regarded as pieces made in Suzhou. However, the most famous embroidery artist in history was Shen S

此文是一篇刺绣论文范文,刺绣方面论文范文集,与江南刺绣:丝绸上的艺术绝技相关毕业论文开题报告。适合不知如何写刺绣及苏绣及民间方面的作曲专业大学硕士和本科毕业论文以及刺绣类开题报告范文和职称论文的作为写作参考文献资料下载。

hou, a native woman of Nanxun, a town of silk export in Huzhou.

Shen Shou made her fame in 1904 when the sixteen-year-old created eight embroi-dery pieces as tributes and submitted them as gifts in celebration of the birthday of the Empress Dowager Cixi. In the same year, the government sent her to study embroidery and

painting in Japan. After she finished working

in Japan, she was appointed the chief teacher at the embroidery office of the palace. She developed a realist style. In 1911, she created

an embroidered portrait of the Italian queen.

In 1915, her embroidered portrait of Jesus won a gold medal at the Panama–Pacific Internation-al Exposition, a world’s fair held in San Francisco, in the United States. No other em-broidery artist in Jiangnan could stand up to Shen Shou in reputation.

Jiaxing Embroidery Industry

The embroidery indus-try of Jiaxing is taking off right now. Leather and wool products he long since

This embroidered portrait of Russian President Putin was made in Suzhou. Chinese President Xi Jin-ping presented it to President Putin as a state gift.

been export mainstays of Jiaxing. Hand-embroidery products are now another big export from Jiaxing. At Alibaba, China’s larg-

est e-business headquartered in Hangzhou,

a league of 110 embroidery businesses in Jiaxing is enjoying brisk business online. They are flourishing partly because they he broken away from traditional products such as screens or framed and embroidered pictures. They are now applying embroidery to garments, pillows and bed sheets and -forters. No wonder they are now producing largely for the overseas market.

Hangzhou Embroidery

Embroidery in Hangzhou has a similar history of glorious rise and miserable de-cline. As the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), Hangzhou enjoyed its glory as an embroidery powerhouse about 800 years ago. For a long time over the past 200 years, a great number of em-broidery and tailor shops gritated toward Yangbatou, a street in downtown Hangzhou. Though embroidery in Hangzhou is at low ebb, there are still some embroidery masters living in the city. They are trying to revive the art and teach a new generation of em-broidery artists.

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